Technical Guides

Priming & Finishing with CPES

What is a Primer?

A primer is a foundational coat applied before a topcoat to improve durability and adhesion.

Common primer types:

  1. Adhesion-promoting primer
  2. Porosity-sealing primer
  3. Corrosion-inhibiting primer
  4. Moisture-diffusion barrier
  5. Sanding primer

CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) functions as a multi-purpose primer that:

  • seals pores
  • promotes adhesion
  • locks wood fibers
  • blocks tannin bleed

Wood Moisture Requirements

For sealers to penetrate wood effectively, the wood pores cannot already be filled with water.

Key concepts

  • Bound water causes wood swelling
  • Free water occupies pores and prevents penetration
  • Fiber saturation point is roughly 30% moisture content

Forearm moisture test

  • Compare dry wood with target wood using inner forearm skin
  • Damp wood feels cooler
  • Doesn’t work on painted wood

Refinishing Basics (Front Doors)

Recommended process:

  1. Sand old finish off
  2. Remove dust
  3. Saturate wood with CPES
  4. Allow curing for several days
  5. Lightly smooth surface
  6. Apply another coat 1–2 days before topcoat

Applying varnish during CPES cure allows a chemical bond that greatly increases durability.


CPES as a Primer for Varnish

Steps:

  1. Sand wood to 220 grit
  2. Use only oil-based stains
  3. Let stain cure 3–4 days
  4. Saturate wood with CPES
  5. Apply final CPES coat
  6. Apply varnish next day while CPES is curing

UV protection depends on total film thickness, not coat count.


Applying Varnish

Guidelines:

  • Use about 1 quart per 20 sq ft
  • Avoid aggressive sanding between coats
  • Thin varnish on vertical surfaces to prevent runs
  • Avoid overly thick coats on horizontal surfaces
  • Practice on scrap wood first

Staining Wood

Use only oil-based stains.

Old or restored wood

  1. Sand
  2. Apply CPES
  3. Light sand
  4. Apply stain
  5. Cure 4 days
  6. Apply CPES and topcoat

New wood (even color)

Same process as above.

New wood (grain highlighting)

  1. Sand
  2. Apply stain first
  3. Cure 4 days
  4. Apply CPES
  5. Apply topcoat

Restoration with CPES

Wood Door Restoration

Common failures:

  • rot
  • weather damage
  • UV damage

Restoration process:

  1. Remove damaged wood
  2. Saturate with CPES
  3. Fill with epoxy filler
  4. Sand
  5. Re-prime with CPES
  6. Apply finish

Window & Sill Repair

Process:

  1. Remove paint and loose wood
  2. Assess rot
  3. Saturate remaining wood with CPES
  4. Rebuild with epoxy filler
  5. Prime and paint

Mixing Two-Component Products

Important:

  • Mix exact ratios
  • Mix thoroughly

Tips:

  • Blend until color is uniform
  • For liquids, mix in multiple containers

How Much Glue Is Needed?

Coverage depends on:

  • glue-line thickness
  • wood porosity
  • squeeze-out
  • surface flatness

Typical practical coverage:

  • 50–300 sq ft per gallon

Stucco Crack Repair

Recommended method:

  1. Cut crack into V-groove
  2. Prime with Damp Concrete Primer
  3. Fill with flexible sealant
  4. Press sand into surface
  5. Paint after curing

Sealing Unpainted Concrete Block Walls

Process:

  1. Grind and clean surface
  2. Apply Damp Concrete Primer
  3. Apply Fill-It Epoxy Filler
  4. Seal all voids

Tropical Hardwood / Oak & Teak Epoxy Glues

Key rules:

  • Sand all surfaces
  • Apply epoxy to both sides
  • Avoid over-clamping
  • Never clean with solvents
  • Mix thoroughly

Concrete Floor Surfacing

System includes:

  1. Surface prep
  2. Priming
  3. Epoxy paint
  4. Epoxy filler
  5. Final coats
  6. Optional slip resistance

Designed for industrial and food-service environments.


Osmosis Blistering in Fiberglass Boats

Causes:

  • polyester resin breakdown
  • water intrusion

Repair process:

  1. Remove blisters
  2. Dry laminate
  3. Saturate with CPES
  4. Apply epoxy barrier coats
  5. Fair and finish hull

Restoration of Rotted Wood with a Flexible Penetrating Resin

This paper addresses an area which has been less a science than a practice for as long as man has been using wood. It has been thus with all human endeavor: in the absence of a reproducible standard, technology does not develop and even fundamental advances in the quality of an art or practice may go unrecognized. Further advances, agreement on methods of measurement and goals, none of these things happen where there are no reproducible standards.

In 1972 Steve Smith invented the modern technology that restores deteriorated wood and the products that implement that technology. After twenty years of proven performance he conducted the scientific research that defined that science and set out an open standard for products that would do that. In 1998 he published that information in this paper. This activity is now commonplace, with a variety of products from different manufacturers sold over-the-counter and used both professionally and as well by amateurs. Yet, there are no agreements among manufacturers, users, property owners, architects or structural engineers as to exactly what is being done, or how, or with what result. The reason for this is that there has never been any such thing as a standard piece of rotten wood.

Until now.